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Showing posts with label irene. Show all posts
Showing posts with label irene. Show all posts

29 July 2014

Seeing Double in Kismet


Some of the gold paint used in Kismet is still doing the rounds at the museum in Berlin housing Dietrich's collection, seventy years after the film was made. It's fitting, as her gilt legs – in that Jack Cole-choreographed dance – and the loopy wigs she wore in it, are what the movie is remembered for.

Marlene with designer Irene.
At that point in her career, an Arabian detour seemed fated for Marlene. She'd already done Scheherazade on radio (playing the title role and the slave girl and the monarch), and producer Edward Small announced that he was preparing an Egyptian-set film romance, Bella Donna, for her, to be released by United Artists.

The latter didn't materialise, but Kismet did – at MGM, where stars were “flattered and spoiled”. She thought her role (as Jamilla, in Baghdad by way of Macedonia) was “impossible”, but her star salary would cover expenses back home during her upcoming overseas USO tours. Marlene “couldn't be happier,” Screenland gushed about the star's new two picture deal at Metro, before wondering aloud if it was “true that she wasn't invited to the wedding when her daughter married recently. 'Tis rumored.”

While MGM was putting the final pre-production touches on its piece of exotica, Marlene divided her time between duties as Orson Welles' assistant in his Mercury Wonder Show on Cahuenga Boulevard – where she had replaced Rita Hayworth – and doing shifts at the nearby Hollywood Canteen.

Mind reader Orson Welles' assistants, Rita Hayworth (soon-to-be Mrs Welles) and Marlene Dietrich using the power of suggestion.

Principal photography on the film started in late October 1943. Costume designer Irene devised golden chainmail harem pants for Marlene to wear during her big dance number. These would “jingle” and “glitter” as Marlene lolled around on black lacquer floors (with the actual dancing provided by an uncredited contract dancer).

Marlene and her dance double.

On the first day of shooting of the number, Stravinsky boomed on loudspeakers on the sound stage and Marlene went into her dance. She later remembered: “Suddenly all one heard was crack, crack, crack, the sound of the chainlets breaking, one after the other, then two, six at a time, until I stood there without pants . . . General panic.”

Marlene, aware of schedules and budgets, went into practical mode. “'Gold,' I thought, 'how is a golden effect achieved on the screen?' It occurred to me to paint my legs with gold paint.”

This was done and – although the paint starved her legs from oxygen, causing hypothermia – she thought it looked “simply fabulous” on-screen.


They looked “fabulous” on Broadway too, where they dominated the huge billboard of the Astor Theatre. Kismet opened there on 22 August 1944 (replacing Bathing Beauty) and set a house record when it grossed $310 000 in its 11 week run in New York. Film Daily in its review thought Marlene was “stunning” and “definitely something for the boys.” 

Betty Grable also has Kismet on her mind.

Abbott and Costello's Lost in a Harem recycled sets and costumes  from Kismet. 

30 January 2012

Is 2012 the Year of the Costume?

On the FIDM Museum blog, there's an announcement about the 20th Annual Art of Motion Picture Costume Design exhibition, which will run from February 14 through April 28, 2012. Naturally, at least one costume worn by Dietrich will be on display. Which one(s)? I don't know. Previously, the FIDM Museum blog has featured two items worn by Dietrich, one designed by Travis Banton and the other by Irene. If I understand this interview correctly, FIDM Museum has many items worn by Dietrich (the second-largest collection, in fact, after the MDCB) on long-term loan from a bureaucratic unit called the Department of Recreation and Parks, City of Los Angeles, Historic Hollywood Collection. Catchy name, no? Another FIDM Museum blog describes a cream dress and cape from Desire that was on display at the Oklahoma City Museum of Art in 2010. Whatever we get to see, we should be grateful. The exhibition's free!

09 April 2011

Marlene, Retouched.

(Click for HQ)

Marlene Dietrich in “The Lady Is Willing” (1941). Note the traces of retouching on her right jawline, at her right breast and arm, the left of the torso, and at the bottom of the dress. The intricately beaded gown is by Irene.

22 January 2011

The Dress That Jamie Lee Snipped?




Marlene gave Jamie Lee Curtis one of her old evening dresses to wear to the 1983 or 1984 (sources differ) Academy Awards. Curtis was at the time engaged to one of Dietrich's grandsons.
Apparently, the gown had originally been made for Marlene to wear in 1942's The Lady is Willing; for the Oscars, Curtis had the gown altered and shortened.
Is this the dress?
The shortened version of the gown was sold by Christie's in 1999 for $ 9 200. The auction house credited it as a Jean Louis creation. Jean Louis only started to work at Columbia Pictures in 1944.
In the film, Dietrich's gowns are credited to Irene.